Thursday, 18 February 2010

Star Wars Mini Amigurumi


Well, I've finally done it! I've designed all my Star Wars amigurumi to my satisfaction, written up the patterns, photographed them, put the patterns together and put them all on Etsy!


I've been working on these little Star Wars guys on and off for a couple of years. Partly inspired by my and my children's love of Star Wars, and the way Star Wars Lego looks so cute, I realised that I wanted to crochet mini versions of all my favourite characters. It's taken so long because of wanting to keep them stylistically similar even though the characters are very varied. I also wanted them to be different sizes, so that Leia is taller than R2-D2, and Vader is taller than Han, for example, but not perfectly proportionally, or Chewie ends up being too tall. As it is, Yoda is 2.5" tall and Chewbacca is 4.5" tall, with the rest fitting in between them.


I made Yoda first, he's pretty simple and easily identifiable, then Leia (my favourite character, the one I identify with) whose iconic hairstyle is perfectly suited to be reproduced in crochet. Neither of these two had legs, Yoda with his robe and Leia her dress, so when it came to most of the other characters I wasn't sure how to make them. I knew I wanted them to have big feet, and to stand up easily, and so I made them without separate legs, but simply defined them with yarn afterwards, a solution which I'm really happy with.


Some of them took longer than others to perfect. I wasn't sure if C-3PO would work, but I was happy with him straight away. Vader, on the other hand, I just couldn't get right. His head, his face mask, how much detail to give him. Since his costume is almost entirely black it's very hard to define any details. I made him several times with a flat triangular mask and it wasn't until I made it more three-dimensional that I was satisfied.


The Ewok was tough, too. I made him in a completely different way with his hood as part of his head, which I thought I liked, but when I came to write the pattern up it just seemed too unnecessarily complicated. since I'd just been making my crocheted cork knights I realised I could use a similar technique to make a simple separate hood, which I much preferred.


Apart from fine-tuning his height, I liked my Chewbacca, which I made with an alpaca mix yarn then brushed, but I realised that finding that particular type of yarn might be difficult. So I also made him using a normal smooth acrylic yarn that had various different browns in it and which brushed up just as nicely with a wire pet brush.


Anyway, I'm very happy with the finished patterns. If they prove to be popular I'll have to work on some more characters - I think I'll do Boba Fett and Obi Wan next. If you want to see more photos, check out my Flickr (http://www.flickr.com/photos/96575205@N00/), and if you'd like to buy any of the patterns just go to my Etsy shop (http://www.lucyravenscar.etsy.com/).


***Latest news July 2014***
 
Not all these patterns are available for sale now, as they are going to be included in a new Star Wars crochet book, due to be published Spring 2015.

 
 

Sunday, 7 February 2010

Cork and Crochet: Gnomes


You will need:
Small amounts of yarn: for example red for hat, white for hair, blue for top, brown for trousers.
Black yarn for mouth.
A cork, approx 1.75" (4.5cm) long.
Black permanent marker pen (Sharpie).
4 mm (F) hook.


Abbreviations:
ch = chain
st = stitch or stitches
ss = slip stitch
sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)
BLO = back loop only
FLO = front loop only
FO = fasten off

General instructions:
Work in rounds unless otherwise stated and do not join rounds unless told to. Use a stitch marker to mark the start of a round - a small piece of different coloured yarn placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To start a round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer (ch2, work 6 sc into 1st ch). If you work the 6 sc over the tail of yarn as well you can use that to pull the hole tight.


Work through both loops of stitches unless otherwise indicated.


Start with hat colour yarn.
Round 1: Ch2, work 6 sc into 1st ch - 6 sc.
Round 2: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc] 2 times - 8 sc.
Round 3: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc] 2 times - 10 sc.
Round 4: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc] 2 times - 12 sc.
Round 5: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc] 3 times – 15 sc.
Round 6 - 7: (2 rounds) Sc in each sc around - 15 sc.
Sc in next 8 sc, change to hair colour yarn, sc in next sc, then mark as start of round.
Round 8: Sc in each sc around - 15 sc.
Ch1, turn.
Row 1: Sc in next 10 sc, ch1, turn - 10 sc.
Row 2: Sc in next 10 sc, ch5.
Round 9: Sc into 1st sc of row 2, sc in next 9 sc, 5 sc over ch5 - 15 sc.
Round 10: Sc in next 2 sc, change to top colour yarn but carry the hair colour yarn under. Sc in next 8 sc, change to hair colour yarn.
Beard:
 Row 1: FLO Sc in next 5 sc, ch1, turn.
 Row 2: Miss 1st sc, sc in next 3 sc, ch1, turn.
 Row 3: Miss 1st sc, sc in next sc, ss in next sc. FO, leaving short length of yarn.

Pick up top colour yarn and continue Round 10 working in the back loops behind beard. Pull yarn through 1st back loop, yarn over hook and pull through. Sc in same back loop and each of next 4.
Round 11 - 12: (2 rounds) Sc in each sc around - 15 sc
Change to trouser colour yarn.
Round 13 - 14: (2 rounds) Sc in each sc around - 15 sc.
Ss in next sc, FO and weave in end.


Use yarn from beard to secure it to the body with a couple of stitches


Fit over cork and carefully draw face in the gap.


Cork and Crochet: Ninjas




You will need:
Small amount of black yarn.
Grey yarn to embroider throwing stars.
A cork, approx 1.75" (4.5cm) long.
Black permanent marker pen (Sharpie).
4 mm (F) hook.


Abbreviations:
ch = chain
st = stitch or stitches
ss = slip stitch
sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)
BLO = back loop only
FLO = front loop only
FO = fasten off


General instructions:
Work in rounds unless otherwise stated and do not join rounds unless told to. Use a stitch marker to mark the start of a round - a small piece of different coloured yarn placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To start a round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer (ch2, work 6 sc into 1st ch). If you work the 6 sc over the tail of yarn as well you can use that to pull the hole tight.


Work through both loops of stitches unless otherwise indicated.



Round 1: Ch2, work 6 sc into 1st ch - 6 sc.
Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around - 12 sc.
Round 3: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc] 3 times – 15 sc.
Round 4 - 5: (2 rounds) Sc in each sc around - 15 sc.
Ch1, turn.

Row 1: Sc in next 10 sc, ch1, turn - 10 sc.
Row 2: Sc in next 10 sc, ch5.
Round 6: Sc into 1st sc of row 2, sc in next 3 sc, [to make ties: ss in next sc, ch3, ss into 2nd ch from hook, ss in next ch, ss back into original sc] 2 times, sc in next 4 sc, 5 sc over ch5 - 15 st.
Round 7: Sc in each st around (work into 1st ss for each of the ties) - 15 sc.
Round 8 - 12: (5 rounds) Sc in each sc around - 15 sc.
Ss in next sc, FO and weave in end.


Use grey yarn to sew two throwing stars onto body.

Fit over cork and carefully draw face in the gap.

Cork and Crochet: Knights

One of the ideas I tried out for the bazaar was to use corks and crochet 'skins' for them. It's a fun way to recycle old corks and makes cute little guys. Here is the first of the patterns: feel free to make these for your own personal use, or to raise money for good causes.




You will need:
Small amounts of grey and bright coloured yarn (red, green, blue or yellow) yarn.
Small piece of felt and length of yarn, both different colours to the main body of the knight.
A cork, approx 1.75" (4.5cm) long.

Black permanent marker pen (Sharpie).
4 mm (F) hook.

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
st = stitch or stitches
ss = slip stitch
sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)
BLO = back loop only
FLO = front loop only
FO = fasten off

General instructions:
Work in rounds unless otherwise stated and do not join rounds unless told to. Use a stitch marker to mark the start of a round - a small piece of different coloured yarn placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To start a round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer (ch2, work 6 sc into 1st ch). If you work the 6 sc over the tail of yarn as well you can use that to pull the hole tight.

Work through both loops of stitches unless otherwise indicated.

Start using grey yarn:
Round 1: Ch2, work 6 sc into 1st ch - 6 sc.
Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around - 12 sc.
Round 3: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc] 3 times – 15 sc.
Round 4 - 5: (2 rounds) Sc in each sc around - 15 sc.
Ch1, turn.
Row 1: Sc in next 10 sc, ch1, turn - 10 sc.
Row 2: Sc in next 10 sc, ch5.
Round 6: Sc into 1st sc of row 2, sc in next 9 sc, 5 sc over ch5 - 15 sc.
Sc in next 2 sc, change to bright coloured yarn and mark as start of round.
Round 7 - 11: (5 rounds) Sc in each sc around - 15 sc.
Change to grey yarn.
Round 12: Sc in each sc around - 15 sc.

Ss in next sc, FO and weave in end.

Cut felt into small shield shape and use contrasting yarn to sew onto body with a cross shape.

Use black yarn to sew a little mouth on the beard.
 Fit over cork and carefully draw face in the gap.





** Check out this Princess pattern on Tarkheena Crafts to go with the knights: http://tarkheenacrafts.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/crochet-pattern-princess-fleurette-of.html **



Bazaar Patterns: Incy Wincy Elephant

Here's another pattern from last year's school bazaar, check out this previous post for full details:
http://lucyravenscar.blogspot.com/2010/02/bazaar-patterns-teeny-tiny-turtle.html


Incy Wincy Elephant


You will need:
Small amount of grey yarn.
Black yarn for features.
Small amount of stuffing.
3.5mm (E) hook.

Special stitch instructions:
4 dc pop: popcorn stitch for legs. Work 4 dc into 1 sc, take hook out leaving loop, put hook through 1st dc & pull loop through.

Round 1: Ch2, work 6 sc into 1st ch, join to first sc with ss - 6 sc.
Round 2: BLO Sc in each sc around - 6 sc.
Round 3 - 6: (4 rounds) Sc in each sc around - 6 sc.
Round 7: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc] 3 times – 9 sc.
Round 8: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc] 3 times – 12 sc.
Round 9: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc] 6 times – 18 sc.
Round 10: Sc in each sc around - 18 sc.
Round 11: [Ear FLO: ss into next sc, ch 2, 2 dc in same sc, 2 dc in next 2 sc, ch 2, ss into last sc], sc in next 6 sc, [Ear FLO: ss into next sc, ch 2, 2 dc in same sc, 2 dc in next 2 sc, ch 2, ss into last sc], sc in next 6 sc - 18 st.
Round 12: 3 sc in the next 3 back loops (of the sc the ears are worked into), sc in next 6 sc, 3 sc in the next 3 back loops, sc in next 6 sc - 18 sc.
Round 13: Sc in next 4 sc, 4 dc pop in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 4 dc pop in next sc, sc in next 10 sc – 18 st.
Round 14 - 16: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around - 18 sc.
Round 17: Sc in next 5 sc, 4 dc pop in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 4 dc pop in next sc, sc in next 9 sc – 18 st.
Round 18: Sc in each st around - 18 sc.
Round 19: [Sc2tog, sc in next sc] 6 times – 12 sc.
Round 20: [Sc2tog] 6 times – 6 sc.
To make tail: Ch 4, ss into 2nd ch from hook, ss in next 2 ch.
FO, leaving a length of yarn.
Use black yarn to sew eyes and a mouth as you wish, stuff and use length of grey yarn to sew up hole at bottom

Bazaar Patterns: Little Lucky Pig

Here's another pattern from last year's school bazaar, check out this previous post for full details:
http://lucyravenscar.blogspot.com/2010/02/bazaar-patterns-teeny-tiny-turtle.html

Little Lucky Pig

 

You will need:
Small amount of pink yarn.
Black yarn for features.
Small amount of stuffing.
3.5mm (E) hook.

Special stitch instructions:
4 dc pop: popcorn stitch for ears and legs. Work 4 dc into 1 sc, take hook out leaving loop, put hook through 1st dc & pull loop through.

Round 1: Ch2, work 6 sc into 1st ch, join to first sc with ss - 6 sc.
Round 2: BLO Sc in each sc around - 6 sc.
Round 3: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc] 3 times – 9 sc.
Round 4: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc] 3 times – 12 sc.
Round 5: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc] 6 times – 18 sc.
Round 6: Sc in each sc around - 18 sc.
Round 7: Sc in next 6 sc, 4 dc pop in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 4 dc pop in next sc, sc in next 6 sc – 18 st.
Round 8: Sc in next 16 sc, 4 dc pop in next sc, sc in next sc – 18 st.
Round 9: Sc in next sc, 4 dc pop in next sc, sc in next 16 sc – 18 st.
Round 10 - 11: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around - 18 sc.
Round 12: Sc in next 17 sc, 4 dc pop in next sc – 18 st.
Round 13: Sc in next 2 sc, 4 dc pop in next sc, sc in next 15 sc – 18 st.
Round 14: [Sc2tog, sc in next sc] 6 times – 12 sc.
Round 15: [Sc2tog] 6 times – 6 sc.
To make tail: Ch 9, ss into 2nd ch from hook, ss in next 7 ch.
FO, leaving a length of yarn.
Use black yarn to sew eyes and a mouth/nostrils as you wish, stuff and use length of pink yarn to sew up hole at bottom.

Bazaar Patterns: Teeny Tiny Turtle

Every Christmas my sons' school holds a craft bazaar for the children, and I use every spare moment in the weeks beforehand making things to sell. I try to come up with things that are quick to make, so they tend to be small with minimal sewing together. I use popcorn stitches to make legs, ears and even heads. I'm posting a few of the patterns here - feel free to use them for personal use or to make money for good causes.


General instructions:
Work in rounds unless otherwise stated and do not join rounds unless told to. Use a stitch marker to mark the start of a round - a small piece of different coloured yarn placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To start a round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer (ch2, work 6 sc into 1st ch). If you work the 6 sc over the tail of yarn as well you can use that to pull the hole tight.
Work through both loops of stitches unless otherwise indicated.


Abbreviations:
ch = chain
st = stitch or stitches
ss = slip stitch
sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)
dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (UK)
hdc = half double crochet (US), half treble crochet (UK)
BLO = back loop only
FLO = front loop only
tog = together
sc2tog = decrease by working two sc together
FO = fasten off


Teeny Tiny Turtle
This turtle really is small - I don't have one to check with because they all sold, but I think they were about 1.5" across. They can be tiny toys, or turn them into keyrings.


You will need:
Small amounts of green (shell) and brown (body) yarn.
Black yarn for eyes and mouth.
Small amount of stuffing.
3.5mm (E) hook.

Special stitch instructions:
4 dc pop: popcorn stitch for legs. Work 4 dc into 1 sc, take hook out leaving loop, put hook through 1st dc & pull loop through.

Start using green yarn.
Round 1: Ch2, work 6 sc into 1st ch - 6 sc.
Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around - 12 sc.
Round 3: [2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc] 6 times – 18 sc.
Round 4 - 5: (2 rounds) Sc in each sc around - 18 sc.
Ss and change to brown yarn.
Round 6: BLO Sc in next 2 sc, 4 dc pop in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 4 dc pop in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, [head: 3 dc in each of next 2 sc, take hook out leaving loop, put hook through 1st dc & pull loop through.], sc in next 2 sc, 4 dc pop in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 4 dc pop in next sc - 17 sc.
Round 7: [Sc in next sc, sc2tog] 3 times, sc in next 2 sc, [sc2tog, sc in next sc] 2 times – 12 sc.
Round 8: [Sc2tog] 6 times – 6 sc. FO, leaving a length of yarn.

Use black yarn to sew eyes and a tiny mouth on the turtle's head, stuff and use length of brown yarn to sew up hole at bottom.




Monday, 1 February 2010

Dusk and Hedgerow Spirits

Over the last few months, whenever I've been going somewhere I might have a bit of spare time to crochet (like visiting relatives for a few days), I've taken a bag with an interesting furry yarn, a couple of contrasting yarns and my faithful 3.5mm hook. I take my scribbled notes for a creature I've made before (it's too awkward to make up an entirely new pattern and make notes when I'm on the go) and make a different version.



Here are the two creatures that I made: a Dusk Spirit and a Hedgerow Spirit. I made them then decided what they were once they were completed.



The little Hedgerow Spirit reminds me of the colour your fingers go when you pick blackberries, and the fur around his face looks a bit like Old Man's Beard, so I felt that he belonged in the hedgerows. He lives there and looks after the all the small creatures that live there too, with his horns helping him push through the undergrowth.



The Dusk Spirit matches my Dawn spirit (appropriately enough! See a picture of her here: http://lucyravenscar.blogspot.com/2009/07/earth-spirits.html). The colour of her fur seemed right for that time of day, and her face seemed very calm. Since dusk is when many animals feel safe to feed, I think of it as a quiet safe, time, and it seemed right that she would be their guardian.